Trekking adventure in Darkut glacier and Darkut pass in Yasin valley Gilgit-Baltistan

The Yasin valley was still under the shadows of the dusk at the morning, uncovering itself from the fold of dark night with shining stars all over the sky. Still some stars were struggling to stay on the face of sky, but morning sunlight rays finally made them vanish for a new bright and sunny day. Long maple trees were now visible and looked like dancing with the rhythm of cool breeze coming down from the snow-capped mountain surrounded the valley. I was feeling fresh air in my lungs that was providing clean non-toxin oxygen flow throughout my blood. It gave a unique calmness and relaxation to my nerves that had never experience in Lahore where one had to work in high tension along with heavy noise and pollution.

Getting ready for trekking adventure in Darkut Glacier

After taking the splendid local breakfast, we were ready for trekking adventure in the Darkut glacier or Ghamubar Glacier. Breakfast was entirely prepared with local ingredients with real aroma of ghee prepared from cow milk. Locally backed bread with white tangy cheese dipped in organic (desi) ghee and fried organic eggs had provided energy for the full day adventure. Then a cup of salty warm tea was enough to digest all of the fats taken in breakfast. “I have never taken such type of cheese.” Saif told to Ameer Ali. He was our host in the Yasin Valley and he was one of real honest and wonderful person. He was around 50 years old but still looked healthy and fit. His greenish grey eyes with wrinkles around them were still ready to face any adventure in mountains. “All things are prepared at home without any artificial content.”, Ameer Ali said. “We have a small garden for all seasonal vegetables and a cow for milk.” “It was too much fatty food, I think.” Faiz seemed to inquire about it. “It will make you fit for today’s expedition.” He replied. “You need some energy for Darkut”. Darkut or Darkoot Glacier is located near Darkut village in the Yasin Valley that is located in the Ghizar district of Gilgit-Baltistan. Ghizar is largest district by area in the Gilgit-Baltistan. One of the importance of the Ghizar district is the Shandu Pass that is used to access Chitral district in KPK.

Narrow Canyon led to Darkut Pass

At the beginning from the Yasin Valley, there was a metaled road with little steepness. After few kilometers, that became rough trek containing small stones and rocks. The mud and dust hold them and gave a shape of a road. Trek became steeper and steeper slowly along the Yasin River roaring over the rolling stones in its path. The canyon had sufficient space to hold the Yasin River and the trek leading toward the Darkut Pass between the surrounding mountain ranges. Due to closeness of the mountains, a narrow strip of sky was visible that was also covering with shining patches of white clouds. “There is no limit of beauty in this area.” Faiz said while capturing the scenic beauty of the valley with his camera. “Yes! Have a short break here.” Saif pushed the brake paddle and pull the hand brake and stopped the BRV on roadside. The Honda BRV was the main companion that always ready to face all of the hurdles in coming adventures.

Unable to escape from the spell of charming weather

The Yasin valley was just like a heaven spread out around us. A bright sun was just shinning behind us and gave a warmth light in the coolness of the Yasin valley. A cool and hygienic breeze was coming from the river side in front of us that energized each cell of our body and made us relaxed and calm. Shinning and clean water of the Yasin River splashed out small drops of water in air like mist of the morning. We were feeling those on our faces like pinching the skin with tinny spike of ice. Karamat was collecting small and dry tree stems and setting fire to prepare tea for us. In the next movement, kettle was bulging out an aroma of tea in the atmosphere that pulled us to sit around the kettle. All of us were enjoying the warmness of fire with hot cup of tea in the splendid views of the Yasin Valley.

Playing trekking Adventure with crossing streams

Sometimes, trek became more rugged due to streams coming from the hillside. Mostly it was covered with pebbles came down due to flow of water in streams. Some of the streams became dried at that time but passage was still a hurdle to cross. The flow of water was still in most of the streams. While crossing those streams, one could feel current of flowing water with cold air coming down from the ice on the top of mountain peaks. We were used to cross these streams on foot to feel the freshness of cold and clean water. Pebbles inside the streams became slippery but we enjoyed it to make ourself balanced over them. “Stop! Look at these” Faiz shouted with joy. There were small trout fish in the running water of the stream. We had tried to catch them, but they were so quick to slip away. So, to catch a fish was still our dream in the Yasin Valley. The Yasin River is one of the major sources of trout fish. Local people mostly enjoyed a free party in their homes after catching fish from the river.

Darkut village, last human settlement in Gilgit district

After two hours driving, we were crossing the trek inside the Darkut village. It was the last human settlement in the Ghizar district in the Gilgit region at the elevation of more than ten thousand feet having nearly 2,000 habitants. The road leading toward Darkut Glacier was just like a street then. Small houses build with stones and mud were on both sides of the road, where kids were standing in front of their houses. The white faces with reddish cheeks were looked like red spotted apricots. Their shinning eyes were looking us as we were aliens coming from another planet. The front walls of most of the houses were not tall enough, so one could see their local vegetation as well as animals inside their home. “Stop, Stop! Drop me here, I will join you later”, Ali cried at the moment. “I am just coming with some gift for you.” He was going to hide himself in the rows of houses, while we were moving forward.

Shopping experience at the height of elevation

At the end of the Darkut village, there was a small general store that was the last and highest shop in the Yasin Valley as claimed by the shopkeeper. It was a small square sized shop made of wooden planks and sheets. It contains all type of household commodities as well as few varieties of garments. We had purchased few eatables such as biscuits, cake, and small tea box for the next part of expedition. It was really a unique and fantastic experience to purchase from a departmental type store at the elevation of more than 10,000 feet.

After crossing the Darkut village, we had to cross a small wooden bridge over a tributary of the Yasin river. That was a broad splendid view of the confluence of that tributary and the Yasin River in front of us. Due to the flow of water, a strong current of air flow was felt behind us pushing us toward the opposite side. We had to hold our legs by sticking them on the wooden plunks of the bridge. Then, we were on a narrow passage with small bushes on the both sides, that had no option other than single vehicle. Fortunately, this trek was not very long, but hurdles were always part of the adventure. There were two jeeps in front of us, stopped due to broken bridge over a small stream. Few foreigner tourists were coming out from jeeps to visit the Darkut Pass. They were much quick to move toward the destination with having full hiking gear. Luckily the trek was wide enough there to turn the vehicle back and got parked the white BRV over the same narrow passage.

Trekking toward Darkut glacier

As crossed the broken bridge over the small stream that is another major tributary or source of Yasin River. The huge peaks full of glacier ice were standing on the left side, covering the most of the sky with their mighty sizes. The bright rays of sun made them shining their faces like a mirror. These rays also made the weather little warm but the air coming down from surrounding glacier made the atmosphere still pleasant and cool. Number of ravines were coming down from those icy skeletons with neat and shining water coming the part of the river flowing in the feet of those hills. A broader view of the Darkut village was in front of the Darkut glacier on our left side. Small houses looked splendid in the chunks of lush green trees and mighty snow-capped mountains. Huge Darkut glacier having dusty black face with a shining white surface at the top was on the right side.

View of Ghamubar Lake

There was vast field, in front of us, that led toward the glacier. It contained full of the glacier rocks and stones that made difficult to move. The area was once a part of Darkut glacier that was melted down due to summer season. It was also due to climate change that had forced to retreat the glacier back and it became smaller in size and left vast plain of rocks behind it. It is expected to become more shorter in future if we are not able to control the impacts of climate change. As completed the difficult hike on the rocks, a tremendous view of the Ghamubar or Gamoo Bhr Lake was in front of us that had vanished all of the pains and troubles in getting it. It was a glacier lake fed by the glaciers on the surrounding mountain hills as well as the Darkut glacier. It is located at the elevation of 8,900 feet and one of the highest lakes in Pakistan. It is the major source of the Yasin River that finally ends in the Gilgit River in the Gupis Valley. The melting wall of the Darkut glacier had created multiple water channels to create the main source of the lake water. Both left and right side of the lake were compressed by the high mountains with falling stones due to landsliding by melting glacier from the top of the surrounding hills.

Meanwhile, we had met with those foreigner travelers near the lake. They were group of four foreigners more than sixty years old, but having full of energy to travel. They had plan to visit different places in the Northern Area of Pakistan. They really had courage and fitness to travel on the difficult and rugged treks in these mountain valleys. We had a short conversion with them and they were very happy with the hospitality of the local people in the Pakistan. They were also excited to visit Pakistan again in next years. We had a short interaction with Mr. Muhammad Waseem who is a vlogger and running YouTube channel.

Mountaineering activity toward Darkut Glacier

We were on the other side of the Ghamubar lake after crossing the small wooden bridge in front of the main outflow of the lake, that was actual starting point of the Yasin River. Small ripples of water were formed due to air flow on the shallow part of the lake after the bridge. A rocky bed of lake was seen easily from the crystal-clear water. Once again, Karamat had settled a small stove to prepare tea for us. We had enjoyed the wonders of hot tea in the cool breeze circulating in both opposites in the high standing mountains. It touched the lake water and left the coolness of the glacier water on over bodies. The sip of hot tea gave a small warmness in the cold atmosphere of the Darkut glacier and the Ghamubar lake. We had also enjoyed a local special food, called Sharbat, that is normally prepared in local weddings. We were expecting it as a sweet by its appearance, but it was a salty sweet instead. It was the gift that was presented by Ali who had just joined as before tea. The Sharbat is a local dish prepared with wheat flour, organic ghee, almonds, and salt. It is presented with flour bread and cow yogurt drink in special events like weddings, or child birth.

There was no proper trek toward the glacier, it was just layer of rocks rolled down due to melting of glaciers from the hillside. Large number of small and medium sized rocks and stones were struck with each other from the bottom of the lake to the steep face of the hillside. In the beginning, path was much steep and covered with high rocks and stones. We had to climb over the rocks to move forward, then it became more steeper but easy to move forward due to small size rocks. These were loosely packed on trek, so slipping or rolling of those rocks was common while moving over them. Without proper hiking gear, it became difficult to move on the rolling stones. One wrong step would roll you inside the cold water of the lake with rolling rocks over you. A quick step was better rather to wait for next move, as consistent weight on the rock would be a reason of rock rolling. As we moved forward, it became steeper and more difficult, but with the grace of Allah, we were almost there to access the top of the Darkut Glacier. The dusty black face of the glacier was just in front of us that showed large number of cracks and seracs in it due to melting. Several water channels had created along the face of the glacier. These channels were merged slowly in the Ghamubar lake and showing a fantastic view of the lake. Due to vast area in front of the glacier, air moved toward opposite site. Sequential layers of ripples were moving toward opposite direction, which was showing a dynamic animation effect of the mountain showdown over the surface of lake. Finally, we were on the white shining surface of the glacier.

Exploring the Darkut Glacier

The Darkut glacier or Ghamubar glacier is stretched on the right side toward the Darkut Pass that is the gateway to access the Tajikistan through the Wakhan corridor in Afghanistan that has a common border with Tajikistan, China, and Pakistan. The silvery surface of the glacier was slightly covered with the dust, but a sparkling effect with white shine was shown as sun rays touched it. Due to heavy melting rate of the glacier, there became large number of crevasses and holes on its surface. Therefore, much care is required to move along these holes and crevasse, as they are normally hundreds of feet deep and it becomes much difficult get out from it if someone has fallen in it. Ali had rolled a medium-size stone in one of the holes, so a smashing sound was heard after few seconds as it hit the bottom surface of the glacier. “Are you crazy?” Shouted Faiz, “It can be dangerous.” Ameer Ali told not to worry about it as glacier surface was hardened enough and could not be easily broken. Instead of his comments, much care is required while moving on the surface of any glacier, you must have hiking stick to push harden in front of you to guess the condition of the glacier surface. Sometimes, glacier has melted totally from its bottom side, and just leaving a slight top layer that would be cracked immediately if proper care is not maintained while moving over it.

Darkut Pass to access Wakhan Corridor in Afganistan

The vastness of the Darkut glacier gave a romantic view of the atmosphere in the Yasin Valley. The white layer of ice was spread all over and extended to the surrounding hills and the Darkut Pass. The front peaks are totally covered with whiteness of the glacier snow those stretched on the right side toward the Darkut Pass. The Darkut Pass trek is started from the right side of the wooden bridge over the main tributary of the Yasin River. One full day trek covered with glaciers and steep mountain rocks leads toward the Darkut Pass. A proper guide must be required, if someone wants to travel to access it. The beauty of Darkut Pass is the unique view of the Wakhan corridor that is a reserved area for wildlife in Afghanistan.

Lush green meadows in front of Darkut Glacier

The sun was just hiding itself behind the mighty hills of the Darkut Valley, when we were sitting in the meadow between the Darkut village and the Darkut glacier. It is vast meadow with lush green grassy field with number of small water channels from the surrounding hills, crossing the meadow to set them in the Yasin River. There were number cows and other household animals were grazing in it. The lush green surface of the meadow in front of the snow-capped mountain peaks gave an unforgettable view that could not be explainable in words. A cool breeze coming down from the hills had filled the body with energy that was enough to revive the body fitness after the tiredness of the journey. The sun was just touching the peaks with the shining ice on it had created another charming effect in atmosphere. It made someone to fall in love with the mountain craze of travelling by facing the difficulties and hurdles just for the sake of this romantic sensation and relaxation.

Colors of Darkut Polo ground

There was large size play ground touching the boundaries of meadow on the village side. Locals were playing cricket and polo there, we stopped a while there to enjoy the games of those local people. It is also known as the Darkut Polo Ground, as polo is one of the most famous games in the area. The team of Yasin Valley had won the Shundur Polo final match number of times. In the beautiful atmosphere of the valley, those young people in different colorful dress gave a more dynamic effect in the valley. As we had decided to get back to the Yasin Valley, Saif tried to turned the BRV back and moved toward the road by crossing grassy path in front of it. Unfortunately, the grassy path was too much wet and slippery. In very next moment, the BRV had been stuck in the center of that small wet and muddy patch. Its white shiny surface was spotted with the splashes of mud through tires while struggling to get out from the situation. At last, the splendid effort of those young players set the BRV out of the trouble.

Resistible departure from Darkut

Sun rays were still trapped inside the valley even after it had set down. Mountain peaks are still shining with orange light of those reflecting rays. As darkness moving toward the valley, a more calmness silence was also prevailed in the valley that spelled out a horrible effect with the darkening shadows of mountains. The long-standing trees with stretching hands downward were casting moving shadows over the trek to make it narrower to cross. The rhematic noise of the Yasin River was heard in lower tone to detract traveler toward it. All of these characters were trying to stop one to spend a night there to get view of shining stars with blackish layer of night over the sky. Camping site was also available just before the village to get such romantic views of the valley in the darkness within the crimson light of the lamps. The shortage of time is the real nightmare that forces one to leave as early as possible. Therefore, the BRV’s headlights were struggling to find the path by spreading a glare over the road to go back toward the Yasin Valley and finally to our home in Lahore.

About Tour Group Sponsored by Ravine Adventure Club

Ameer Ali was our host as well as acting as a guide for the Darkut expedition. He is a funny and talkative person with good sense of humor. His interesting stories and discussions leave no room for boredom and tiredness. Karamat is a resident of the Yasin Valley but working as social media manager in a local firm in Lahore. He is a silent personality but behave positively in every manner. Ali also belongs to the Yasin Valley and working as designer and video editor in the same firm. He is a smart and intelligent person and has experience of medium type of mountaineering expeditions. Saif is an account and audit manager in Honda Atlas in Pakistan. He has found much cooperative in implementing the strategic adventure plans to guide a true line of action. Faiz is a CEO of a local firm in Lahore and has lot of experience of travelling and performing adventurous tours. He is also a good photographer and fond of capturing nature closely. Author has experience of more than ten years in developing and promoting tourism in Pakistan. He has organized number of expeditions in the Northern Areas of Pakistan and is also encouraging travelers to flow the principle of Leave No Trace and Sustainable Tourism to protect these areas for future generations.